Guntur Karam Podi

This is the jar that sits closest to the stove. Whole Guntur chillies are dried on the terrace rather than in a dryer, wiped stem by stem, then roasted slowly on an iron pan until the skin blisters and the kitchen becomes unbearable.

Pounded coarse in a stone rolu with garlic and rock salt, so you can still see the flecks. Spoon it over hot rice with a spoon of ghee, or rub it into a dosa.

Heat: high, and it arrives late — after the flavour rather than instead of it.